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THREE VALLEYS –
MILLIONS OF GRAPES –
HUNDREDS OF WINERIES AND MORE!
by Millie Howie
People who love numbers like to toss around facts such as, “of
Sonoma County’s 1,050,000 acres, more than 51,500 are planted in
vineyards.” Another nice figure is that those acres are tended by
1,100 growers, and that 191 wineries within Sonoma County’s broad
boundaries, and a good many other wineries both inside and outside
California, make fabulous wines from that spectacular fruit.
As the wine industry has grown–principally since its rebirth in
the early 1970s–the men and women involved have learned where the
essential elements of soil, light exposure and climate come
together in perfect harmony to provide the ideal home for each
prized wine grape variety. In 1983 the Federal Government made it
easier to identify these specific areas by establishing
regulations allowing the creation of viticultural areas defining
appellations of origin. With this process it became possible for
the consumer to identify where the grapes for their favorite wines
came from and under what conditions the vines were grown.
There are 11 appellations within the all-encompassing Sonoma
County appellation, and the three largest and best known of these
are the Alexander Valley, Dry Creek Valley and Russian River
Valley. Each of the three is home to about 200 individual wine
grape growers, and each of the three is rich in wineries–most open
to the public and eager to welcome guests. Not only is the welcome
mat out at individual wineries, but each valley has formed an
association of growers and wineries to create some truly
outstanding group events, scheduled throughout the year. Tying the
three together is the 29-year-old Russian River Wine Road which
counts among its members most of the wineries in all three major
valleys.
One of the most important and fascinating things to learn about
these grape-rich regions is that grapes and wine are not the only
lures. With the Russian River or its tributaries running through,
across and around the fertile valleys, lovers of the great
outdoors will find wonderfully scenic trails to hike, back roads
for biking, and on the river itself placid pools and sparkly
patches of riffles to float and paddle over in a kayak or canoe.
The rural communities that are also part of this region offer some
of the County’s best dining spots, a choice of inns and hotels for
comfortable lodging, interesting shops for browsing or buying, art
fairs, and on the upper end of the Alexander Valley Cloverdale’s
Citrus Fair, unique in that it is held in the winter and truly
kicks off the California county fair season.
A quick way to check on what is going on throughout the north
coast wine community is to head for the wineries’ individual
websites. If you prefer paper to electronics, each of the
grower/winery groups would be happy to send you copies of their
events calendars so you can plan ahead. Some of the major events,
such as Dry Creek Valley’s Passport weekend and the Russian River
Winegrowers’ Grape to Glass, sell out quickly, so you’ll want to
get the information and make your plans well in advance.
Looking at the Valleys in alphabetical order, the Alexander Valley
may have the oldest and most often related history. Cyrus
Alexander, the man who gave his name to the Valley, was the first
settler in 1846. The Alexander family cemetery may be visited,
with permission, when visitors stop at Alexander Valley Vineyards,
the site of the original Alexander ranch.
For thirty years, as more settlers arrived, the main crop was
wheat. A brief wine boom followed in the 1880s but ended when a
combination of a downturn in the grape market and infestation by
phylloxera wiped out the vineyards. Through necessity the ranchers
turned to other crops and discovered that Alexander Valley was as
welcoming to crops such as pears, apples, prunes and hops, as it
had been to grapes.
Grapes made a comeback starting in the mid-1960s. Orchards were
pulled out and vineyards were planted. Once again growers in the
valley were being sought out for their excellent quality Cabernet
Sauvignon and Chardonnay. From eight wineries in 1969 the total
has grown to 28 today, and they band together throughout the year
to present “First Weekend in the Alexander Valley.” From January’s
“Toast to the New Year” to December’s “Spotlight on Cabernet,” the
wineries roll out the welcome mat, call in the musicians, and
slave over hot grills and ranges to create foods to go with their
wines. Most events need no advance reservations, and many are
free. Call for a schedule, 888/289-4637 or check the website:
www.alexandervalley.org.
Dry Creek Valley in 1879 was described by a local writer as “north
of Healdsburg, west of the Russian River Dry Creek Valley, 16
miles long and two broad.” "Its hillsides," the writer continued,
"are especially adapted to grape culture.” The twin bugaboos of
depression and phylloxera, helped along a decade or so later by
Prohibition, set the Dry Creek Valley wine industry back on its
heels, but by 1970 the Wine Renaissance had begun. The public was
discovering the joys of Dry Creek Valley Zinfandels and Sauvignon
Blancs. It was time to invite the world to look at the vineyards
and wineries and thus, in 1990, was born what was to become one of
the most sought-after “tickets” in the wine country, the annual
Dry Creek Valley Passport Days, held the last weekend in April.
For two days the 42 wineries of Dry Creek Valley decorate their
facilities and dress their owners and staff in appropriate
costumes. They check the cellar for rare reserve and library wines
and invite their own and visiting chefs to pull out all the stops
in the creation of food appropriate to the theme and the wines. It
is worthwhile to get on the waiting list, even if no tickets are
available–they usually sell out a year in advance. Call
707/433-3031 for information or a spot on the list, or email
info@wdcv.com.
The growers and wineries of the Russian River Valley are the most
recent group to band together to describe their land, their
climate and their fine grapes and wine, coming into being in 1995.
Almost immediately, the enthusiasm of the founding members let the
world in on their wonderful secret: the Russian River Valley
region was one of the finest in the world for distinctive Pinot
Noirs and distinguished Chardonnays. To help spread the word, a
major event called Grape to Glass was designed and became a
walloping success with its first appearance in 1996. Combining
inside looks at the winemaking process in its member wineries’
facilities with walks and tastings in the vineyards where the
grapes were grown proved to be an irresistible lure for wine
buffs.
Each year new attractions are added to the schedule, but the event
always emphasizes that Grape to Glass gives visitors a glorious
chance to spend three days “living like a local,” hosted by member
families. Details, as confirmed, will be available on the web at
www.rrvw.org, or by calling 707/521-2534.
As mentioned above, all-inclusive events are presented on a
regular schedule all year by the Russian River Wine Road, starting
with Winter Wineland in January, to Barrel Tasting Weekend in
March, and climaxing with the gala November “Food and Wine
Affair.” Best of all, those planning to visit the three big
valleys can get an excellent, to-scale map with wineries and
lodging clearly marked, by contacting the Russian River Wine Road.
Call for a free copy: 800/723-6336, or click on to
www.wineroad.com.
Happy traveling all year long!
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