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CARRYING ON THE RAFANELLI TRADITION
by Millie Howie
“This is such a beautiful place to live, “ says Shelly Rafanelli,
and she should know. Her whole family was born and raised in the
Dry Creek Valley where the A. Rafanelli wines, made from grapes
grown in the Rafanelli vineyards, have become the wines of choice
of so many consumers that every year every bottle is sold, often
within days of release.
Shelly represents the fourth generation of Rafanellis to make the
wines that bear the family name. Her great grandfather Albert
Rafanelli, for whom the winery is named, arrived in San Francisco
with his wife Litizia, just in time to experience the great
shake-up of 1906. Oddly enough, the earthquake and fire that
followed provided excellent employment opportunities for Albert
since, back home in Florence, Italy, he had become an experienced
carpenter and his services were in high demand. As good as his job
prospects were, however, Albert and Litizia did not feel the city
was a good place to bring up their children and they moved north
to Healdsburg where they established the first A.Rafanelli Winery
at Powell and University, just blocks from the town center.
A. Rafanelli Winery was moved to West Dry Creek Road by Dave
Rafanelli’s dad Americo, who produced only his favorite wine –
Zinfandel. Dave followed his father’s lead into the vineyards and
cellars, and approximately 20 years later he passed on his
knowledge and love of wine and the winemaking process to his
oldest daughter, Shelly.
Shelly attended Cal Poly, San Luis Obispo, studying agricultural
business and marketing. At that time no viticulture or enology
courses were offered at the college, “but we had lots of hands-on
instruction,” Shelly says. “After graduation I also took some
upper level courses at the University of California at Davis. My
dad gave me the title of assistant winemaker, but I learned to do
every winery job. Of course, growing up right at the winery, we
all worked on weekends and vacations so I knew pretty much what I
was getting into, and, while I may refer to my dad’s ‘molding me,’
I welcomed his teachings. He is so meticulous and so good at
passing on the things he learned working with my grandfather. The
family has a winemaking tradition all its own–a unique style with
very high quality that people like, so I want to keep on producing
that level of wine.”
Shelly’s husband Craig Fehlman, a graduate of California State
University/Fresno and vineyard manager for the winery, also lauds
Dave’s concentration on growing grapes of the superb quality that
is evident in the Rafanelli wines.
Total production today is at about the 11,000 case mark, annually.
Of that, better than half is Zinfandel. Cabernet Sauvignon
accounts for 3300 cases and the remainder is split between Merlot,
(500 cases) which Shelly introduced into the line in 1996, and the
high-end Terrace Select Cabernet, made only in years that produce
exceptionally fine grapes.
Speaking of the Merlot, Shelly says it was Craig who suggested it,
and her dad, no doubt remembering the convincing his own father
needed when Dave proposed making Cabernet Sauvignon at the
all-Zinfandel winery, supported the idea.
“We had always blended a small amount of Merlot into the
Cabernet,” Shelly remarks, “then one year Craig said ‘these are
great grapes. Why don’t you make some Merlot?’ So I did. I made
one barrel (24 cases) from the 1996 vintage, three barrels in 1997
and we now make about 23 barrels (500+ cases). It is only sold at
the winery, although the Dry Creek Kitchen in town has had it on
their by-the-glass list for two years.”
As crazy as she is about her niche in the wine industry, Shelly
has no illusions about winemaking being a cushy job. My parents
worked very hard to build up a great reputation for a wonderful
product. While my dad was planting the grapes and making the
wines, my mom (Patty) was handling all the sales, deliveries and
shipping, and we have only recently computerized the business end,
so what they have been doing is incredible. I think they are happy
to have someone following in their footsteps.”
In what is a surprising turn in the conversation Shelly refers to
her three horses and mentions that she and Craig follow the rodeo
circuit “pretty much every weekend.” They don’t ride bulls or
bucking broncos, but have earned respect and some fame in roping
contests.
To find out more about this pioneering family, Shelly suggests a
visit to the Wine Library (Piper and Center streets, Healdsburg)
where you can read an excellent oral history.
The tasting room is open for special events and by appointment
only.
4685 West Dry Creek Road, Healdsburg, 707/433-1385
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