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SONOMA STROLL: Three Destinations in the Center
of Town
by Pat Fusco
The historic Plaza in Sonoma is a big green island surrounded by
temptations. Free parking, wide sidewalks and a seductive
collection of stores and restaurants make it easy to indulge in a
leisurely walk to explore the eclectic tastes of merchants and
chefs.
Three stops described here are examples of the town's ambience:
they're smart but low-key, sophisticated but welcoming, and all
are in the Plaza's picturesque neighborhood.
L'Olivier
Situated on Broadway, the aptly named thoroughfare leading to the
Plaza, is L'Olivier, a shop with a distinctly European feel. Owner
Elie Maghames brought his passion for all things olive to his
business, collecting the best California olive oils, getting to
know the producers on a personal level. The shelves in the front
of the venue are lined with bottles of all sizes, along with many
vinegars, some imported from Spain and France and Italy. A recent
innovation is self-service at a reasonable price, where customers
may fill their own bottles from a huge container of extra virgin
olive oil.
Maghames' interest in fine cooking ingredients shows in other
items he displays - four kinds of Spanish paprika (ranging from
sweet to smoked to bittersweet), jars of capers and huge caper
berries, sea salt and condiments.
He sells cookbooks that celebrate the olive, ceramics and linens
with olive motifs, and wooden serving spoons made from olive wood.
Decorative wall plaques and small works of art all echo the theme.
Maghames fell naturally into making soaps with a pure olive oil
base, many of them subtly scented with botanical fragrances, from
tropical florals to duskier tones. Each day there is a
demonstration of the soapmaking art so that customers can see
exactly how the simple, tissue-wrapped bars came into being.
It's a relaxing change of pace to wander around here, to taste and
compare oils or inhale the aromas of excellent vinegars, or talk
with the owner who is always eager to share his enthusiasm for the
olive.
526 Broadway 707/938-0300, www.lolivier-sonoma.com
Pantry 14
On the opposite end of the Plaza is a bright small shop dedicated
to easy culinary style. Owner Bryan Knox is a Sonoma supporter all
the way, featuring locally-produced goods along with lots of
inspiration for using them.
In front of the storefront with its striped awning are pots with
small saplings bearing the recognizably gray-green leaves of
olive: baby trees to plant in home gardens, living souvenirs.
Colorful merchandise tumbles through the interior. There is a
table holding large displays of locally made "fresh water pasta" -
dramatically over-long spaghetti and ziti, tiny pellets to use in
soup, all made from finely milled pure semolina. Packaged in
see-through wrappings tied with bright ribbon, this is practical
food at its most glamorous. Other tables show off serving pieces
and decorative ceramics, some from Provence, that work beautifully
with the Mediterranean foods of Wine Country.
Sweet jams and preserves, savory condiments and sauces have labels
with familiar local names (girl & the fig restaurant, Wild Thyme
catering), a testament to the town's reputation for good tastes.
A refrigerator case holds fresh foods perfect for a picnic on the
Plaza or outside of town at a winery: Serrano ham and other
charcuterie, seasonal fruits, and cheeses. If something more
luxurious is desired, the shop has caviar on its shelves as well,
along with olives, imported tuna and other tinned fish. Bottles of
cooling fruit-flavored soft drinks from Europe are available.
And there are certainly enough picnic baskets on hand. They hang
from floor to ceiling and line the walls - baskets of wood and
wicker, large ones and small, waiting to be filled with all sorts
of delectables or used just for their good looks.
A stop by Pantry 14 inspires fantasies of perfect dining al
fresco, with plenty of ways to make it happen.
14 West Spain St. 707/933-1430, www.pantry14.com
Della Santina's Trattoria
A short distance from the Plaza on a side street is one of
Sonoma's most popular Italian restaurants. It's the kind of place
visitors dream of finding and locals try to keep to themselves.
The Della Santina family boasts a Tuscan history from Lucca, an
elegant city of people known for hearty appetites, especially
appreciative of fine meats and game.
Quirico–who prefers to be called Don– and his wife Shirley brought
that spirit to their charming property, a homey building set back
from the street. Lots of windows keep the interior bright, a
casually elegant setting immaculate with starched white linens.
It's even cozier when warmed by a fireplace in cooler weather.
Outdoor dining is possible in clement weather in a hidden
courtyard with wrought iron furniture.
Today the Della Santinas' son Robert and his wife Nicole are in
charge of most of the restaurant's functions. They're invested in
keeping alive family recipes, providing authentic fare made from
ingredients grown or produced nearby. Their business title reads "trattoria,
rosticceria, pasticceria", indicating the pride they take in
preparing their own roast meats and baked goods, essential for
true Italian cucina.
Many of their specialties are straight from old traditions, like
thick and lusty minestrone del contadino, a farmer's vegetable
soup, or their famous gnocchi della nonna, potato gnocchi served
every day (sauces vary). Meats play a large role: roasted pork,
duck, chicken or turkey, beautifully turned out, and rabbit when
it is available. For diners who are indecisive, there is a mixed
meat platter with choices. A dish of pappardelle alla lepre is
comfort food incarnate, wide ribbons of pasta tossed with a deeply
flavored sauce with bits of the mild-tasting meat.
On Tuscan Tuesdays at Della Santina's a special menu of dishes
paired with
imported wines is a chance to experience genuine regional Italian
fare on a serious level. A recent one included dishes like ravioli
with in browned butter sauce with sage and pancetta, grilled steak
with vegetable accompaniments straight from the garden and a
chocolate dessert of mousse in an amaretto crust served with crema
Inglesa and wild Italian cherries.
Whether a stroller stops by for lunch or books a dinner to linger
over, this is a place with Sonoma spirit.
133 E. Napa St., 707/935-0576, www.dellasantinas.com
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