Behind the Label: What's in that Bottle of Wine & Why By Phil Bilodeau, Grgich Hills Cellars You're in a wine shop, and see a bottle labeled Cabernet Sauvignon. That means the wine is purely that grape, right? Not always. Federal law requires that only 75% of a wine be composed of one grape for that variety to be listed on the label. What's the reason for this flexibility? Put simply, to allow the winemakers to make better wine, without confusing the consumer. Wines that use large percentages of multiple varieties often use a proprietary name for the wine, but for wines that are predominately one variety, is makes sense to be able to use that on the label. Grape blending, "the winemaker's art," is as old as wine itself. Wild grapevines were a hodgepodge of different varieties, and even when vineyards were cultivated they were often unknowingly "field blends." Certain varieties - notably Chardonnay, Riesling, and Pinot Noir - historically have not lent themselves to blending, though adventurous winemakers occasionally try. These grapes have an individual personality that would be lost in a blend, but other grapes, such as those used in Bordeaux and the Rhone, marry happily with each other. Bordeaux varietals The red grapes allowed in Bordeaux - Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, and to a lesser extent Petit Verdot and Malbec (Carmenere is also permitted, but is almost nonexistent) - compose the most famous and widely imitated blends in the wine world. In the United States, many wines labeled Cabernet Sauvignon often have a splash of Merlot or a dollop of Cabernet Franc in them. Grgich Hills' 2001 Cabernet Sauvignon, for example, is composed of 90% Cabernet Sauvignon, 8% Merlot, and 2% Cabernet Franc. Why do we do this? On the surface, the answer is simple - to make the best wine possible every year. A main benefit of blending is increased complexity and balance in the finished wine. Each of the Bordeaux varietals brings a different component to the mix. Cabernet Sauvignon is known for cassis, black currant, and tobacco flavors, along with imposing structure and tannins (due to its small berries and thick skins, where tannins are found). Merlot offers brighter red fruit (cherries and plums), a supple mouthfeel, and softer tannins, while Cabernet Franc is a lighter, more floral relative of Cabernet Sauvignon. Malbec can provide darker rustic, almost gamy flavors, and Petit Verdot offers intense concentration, structure, and blueberry flavors. So, the Merlot in Grgich Hills Cabernet softens and smooths the Cab while brightening its fruit profile, making it more approachable when young. The small amount of Cabernet Franc adds aromatics and a slight undertone of violets. Not only are the flavors enhanced, but the overall structure of the wine is more complete - acidity, alcohol, tannins, and fruit are all balanced by the various components. Flexibility is the other prime benefit of blending. Depending on the vintage, some varieties are of better quality than others. Merlot, for example, often ripens up to two weeks earlier than Cabernet Sauvignon - if late fall rains affect the Cabernet harvest, a winery's blend might have a higher percentage of Merlot. The ultimate goal is to consistently make the best wine; the precise percentages are not important, only the end result. Thus, many wineries don't list the grapes used or their percentages, since they often change every year. Some producers do list these on the back label, however, and almost all have the information readily available on their Web sites. Making a blend Blending is done in one of two ways. "Field blends" are made from a vineyard (or vineyards) interplanted with multiple varietals, which are harvested at one time and fermented together. Although the varieties may have a genetic tendency to ripen at different times, over a period of years of growing together they gradually sync to the same cycle. The resulting wine is completely integrated due to the cofermentation. Field blends are primarily found in older European vineyards, though many older domestic Zinfandel vineyards contain some Carignan and Validiguié. The other, more common method is to pick and ferment each variety separately before blending them together at some point before bottling. At Grgich Hills, we blend our Cabernet about halfway though the aging process, after about 8-10 months in barrel. At that point, each component of the blend (both different varieties and different lots of the same grape) has developed its own personality enough to compose the blend; we then age the blend further to integrate all of the elements into the wine. So, is a blend better than a wine made exclusively from a single variety? Both have their merits, and one could argue the issue until the wine turned to vinegar. Ultimately it depends on the characteristics of the particular grapes used, and more importantly, personal preference. Still, remember that the next time you raise a glass, a lot more work could have gone into that bottle than you realize! Other common blends (box) Rhone blend (red): Syrah, Grenache, Mourvèdre, Cinsault Rhone blend (white): Viognier, Marsanne, Roussanne Bordeaux blend (white): Sauvignon Blanc, Semillon Super Tuscan: Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot Zinfandel: often contains Petite Sirah Phil Bilodeau directs public relations, marketing, and wine education for Grgich Hills Cellar.