Winter / Spring 2008
Eric Schramm - King of the Wild Fungi
Mendocino Mushrooms
 “I own my own business, but the mushrooms tell me where to go,” says Eric Schramm, a self-taught mycologist who spends about five months a year buying mushrooms on the Mendocino Coast and in the Sierras, Oregon and Washington. The growing popularity of wild mushrooms in Northern California restaurants is attributable to his missionary work.
In 1983 Eric, a former forest ranger and policeman, began a wholesale buying business–Mendocino Mushroom; he is regarded as one of the founders, if not the founder of the local mushroom industry. In a good year, his company ships 60,000 pounds of wild mushrooms—Eric discovered the presence of the prized matsutake mushroom in the county. The principal species bought in his business are matsutake, chanterelle, boletes (porcini) hedgehog and the candy caps he helped popularize among chefs. With flavors ranging from smoky to sweet, these woodland treasures have become menu regulars at fine restaurants. In the Spring, his gathering action shifts to the Sierra Nevada when the morel flush begins
Morels Supreme
offered by Eric Schramm at Winesong!
- 1 quart dried morels (approx. 2 ¾ oz)
- 1 quart boiling water
- ½ c. simmered water
- 1 T chopped garlic
- 2/3 cube butter
- 2–3 tsp. tamari or soy sauce
- 1/3 c grated Parmesan cheese
- 2/3 c. ½ & ½
- ½ tsp sea salt
- 1 c. well caramelized onions (start cooking the onions before beginning the morels, and they will be ready to use when the morels are done).
Rehydrate morels for 10 min. in the freshly boiled water. Strain off liquid, carefully reserving. Press the morels (while in strainer over draining bowl) to release extra moisture. Set liquid aside to settle briefly then carefully decant into another bowl. Do not let any of the sediment at the bottom go into the decanted morel stock. Test the sediment for grittiness; if there is a gritty sand in the sediment, the morels will need to be rinsed several times. Cut the morels in halves. Peel and chop the garlic or put into a garlic press. Carefully decant the stock one more time and put in saucepan on stove to heat. Heat ½ c water to a simmer. Heat the butter in a sauté pan; add the garlic, sauté, add morels, stirring thoroughly. Continue for 5 minutes until lightly braised. Add about ¼ c of the just-simmered water. If it all vaporizes immediately, add a little more, until the radical steam reaction has quieted down. When the moisture has disappeared, ladle in some of the simmering stock water until the morels are almost covered; add 2 tsp. tamari, and salt; cook at a high simmer, covered, adding more stock as the liquid level drops. If the stock seems abundant, cook uncovered for the last 10 minutes. The morels need to cook for 20–30 minutes to become tender. Taste the broth -- adjust seasonings. May add a splash or two of marsala, maderia, chardonnay or similar wines, near the end of the cooking time. When the morels are tender, mix in the grated parmesan, then adjust the heat, adding the cream. Allow the cream to simmer, stirring for five minutes to thicken. Add the caramelized onions, let simmer and serve on sourdough French bread. Garnish with additional Parmesan if desired.
|
