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CHE SYRAH? SYRAH!
by Micheal Arago
 Twenty-five years ago, the California wine landscape was a far cry
from what we see today. The now-famous Paris Tasting in 1976 was
to spark an interest in California wine that has spawned
unprecedented growth. California Cabernet Sauvignon had beaten the
great wines of Bordeaux. Where would the state's wine industry go
from here? What new varietal, from who knows where, would be
embraced by California winemakers?
Old-vine Zinfandel was abundant throughout the state, a legacy
that is California's gift to the wine world. Wines from some of
these vineyards are some of the best the state has to offer.
Cabernet Sauvignon was a proven commodity. Would other Bordeaux
varietals prove to be as successful? Merlot, with its soft tannins
and its velvety textured fruit, has emerged as the second most
planted red varietal. The early '70s saw Sonoma pioneer Joseph
Swan championing Sonoma's Russian River Valley as a place to grow
top-notch Pinot Noir, a view that would prove to be prophetic.
Today this area has been joined by Mendocino's Anderson Valley and
Monterey's Santa Lucia Highlands as home to some of California's
best Pinot Noirs.
Few would have foreseen Syrah's future in California. As late as
1986, only 90
acres of the great grape of France's Rhone valley existed in
California. As of 2003, over 16,000 acres were planted to Syrah,
which now seems poised to eventually surpass Pinot Noir as the
state's fourth most popular red wine.
Currently, great Syrah abounds in the state. Stunning examples are
coming from the North Coast counties, the Sierra Foothills, and
the Central Coast. California's Mediterranean climate seems
well-suited for this classic varietal. It is a wine capable of
expressing deep blackberry and plum flavors, with soft tannins and
complexity. These qualities make Syrah a worthy partner with much
of the cuisine created with California's abundant fresh produce.
Napa Valley's Joseph Phelps was one who saw the future of Syrah in
California. Inspired by Hermitage and Cote Rotie, the great Syrahs
of the Northern Rhone Valley of France, Phelps began searching for
Syrah budwood in 1973. He found a small Syrah vineyard owned by
Christian Brothers less than a mile from his new winery. In 1977
Phelps released his first Syrah from the 1974 vintage, probably
the first commercial release of that varietal in California in the
20th century.
Another who shared Phelps' vision was Qupé Winery's founder Bob
Lindquist. His early forays with Syrah began while at Zaca Mesa in
the early '80s. Zaca Mesa was also the first Santa Barbara winery
to plant Syrah. Bob produced his first Syrah at Qupé in 1985. It
was a difficult sell. The wine-buying public didn't know what it
was, and Bob was still learning to vinify this (at the time) new
varietal. By the late 1980s California's viticultural advances had
improved the quality of his raw materials. That, combined with
winemaking experience, has helped make Bob's Syrah some of the
state's most highly regarded. This area is now home to some of
California's hottest Rhone variety producers. Wines from Alban,
Ojai, and Andrew Murray are considered some of the state's finest.
Randall Graham of Bonny Doon Vineyard was another early true
believer. In the early 1980s, he began blending Syrah with
Grenache and Mourvedre, two other Rhone varietals. The results
were " Le Cigare Volant" and "Old Telegram," humorous names
referring to France's Chateauneuf- du- Pape. As well, he
experimented with Viognier, the grape of Condrieu, the great white
wine of the Northern Rhone. His willingness to experiment and his
fresh, humorous approach to a rather stodgy business earned him
recognition as the spiritual leader of a loose group of winemakers
and consumers known as the "Rhone Rangers."
Evidence of Syrah and other Rhone varietals' increasing influence
would have to be The Central Coast's annual Hospice du Rhone and
the growth of the Rhone Rangers. The Hospice du Rhone, an event
held in San Luis Obispo, recently celebrated its 11th year. A
gathering of Rhone varietal producers and aficionados, this year's
event included over 160 wineries from California, France, and
Australia. The largest tasting of Rhone-style wines in the world,
the 2003 Hospice du Rhone also attracted over 3,500 consumers. The
Rhone Rangers, founded in 1997, has grown to include over 130
wineries and over 600 sidekick members. This educational
organization was formed to share information and spread the gospel
of Rhone-style wines.
The Hospice du Rhone is a by-product of the tremendous growth and
commitment to Rhone varietals in the Central coast region. Another
area that is equally committed is the Sierra Foothills. Home to
some of the state's oldest Zinfandel vineyards, this area is
renowned for its gutsy red wines. That legacy and the frontier
spirit of its vintners made Rhone wines a perfect fit here.
Leading the way is Domaine de la Terre Rouge, a Rhone-wine-only
winery. They produce wines ranging from a dry Viognier, a Muscat
dessert wine, to a line-up of intensely flavored Syrahs. Their
Ascent Syrah, a highly regarded 200-case production, is one of
Amador County's rarest wines.
In neighboring Calaveras County is an almost Rhone-wine-only
winery. We say almost because Twisted Oak Winery in Vallecitos
makes a Rosado (Rosé) comprised of Cabernet Franc, Tempranillo,
and the very Rhonish Syrah and Grenache. This new kid on the block
also bottles a Syrah and a Viognier. Speaking of Tempranillo,
Stevenot Winery in nearby Murphys is championing the cause of this
grape that made Rioja famous. Their Tempranillo is a multiple gold
medal winner. Hmm...Rhone wines...could Spanish varietals
Monastrell and Albarino be next? Well, back on the Rhone track,
also in Murphys is Ironstone Vineyards. A must-see winery if
you're in the foothills, they for a number of years have produced
a Shiraz (Aussie for Syrah) that's considered one of the state's
best Rhone wine values.
A little further north in El Dorado County, Syrah has taken to the
terroir and climate. That is no more evident than at Placerville's
Lava Cap Winery. Renowned for their Petite Sirah, their powerhouse
1999 Reserve Syrah is vinous proof of the potential for Rhone
varietals in Gold Country. They hope to duplicate this success
with their Viognier. Their 2002 has the lovely aromatics and
viscous texture that makes Viognier so unique. This 150-case
production, only their second vintage, shows they're on their way
Cline Cellars is another winery dedicated to Rhone wines. Located
in the Carneros region of southern Sonoma County, they also have
some serious roots in Contra Costa County. Most of these roots
average from 75 to 100 years in age! These old-vine vineyards are
located near the town of Oakley. They are a combination of
Zinfandel, Mourvedre and Carignane, renowned in southern France
for the bright berry and spice flavors of Minervois. Wines
produced from these vines can be found under the Cline Ancient
Vines label. There's also Syrah, Viognier, and an Oakley Vin Rouge
and Vin Blanc in the line-up. The two Oakley wines are Côtes du
Rhone look-alikes and the California Syrah is beginning to develop
a reputation like Cline's California Zin, one of the best deals in
the marketplace.
Sonoma's Russian Hill Winery quickly developed a reputation for a
Chardonnay reminiscent of the wines of Burgundy. Proprietors
Edward Gomez and Ellen Mack's line-up also includes Pinot Noir,
Zinfandel, and three Syrahs, all produced from Russian River
Valley fruit. The Russian River, Ellen's Block (a block tended by
owner Ellen Mack) and Reserve bottlings, are all lovely examples
of Russian River Syrah. The Ellen's Block and Reserve both show
deep and concentrated, complex flavors, yet show grace with silky
texture and well-integrated tannins. Both of these cool climate
Syrahs have the richness and structure to age gracefully.
Yes, in 2003 Syrah can be found throughout California. From the
cooler coastal climes to the warm Sierra Foothills, new producers
of Syrah abound. Napa Valley's Peju Province, where yodeling can
often be heard emanating from the cellar, recently released their
first. We hear it's quite good, but the only place it can be found
is at the winery. Hope you don't mind the yodeling.
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